Thrift Way Deli

Located in the back corner of a fuel station that's been around since dinosaurs roamed the earth, lies a small flat-top grill that churns out burgers so divine, you'd swear they were grilled by the burger gods themselves.

Growing up here, I can't recall a time when Thrift Way wasn’t the beating heart of the Graham, TX community. At some point in ancient history—no clue when exactly—they added a flat top and deep fryer and began blessing patrons with breakfast and lunch.

Given that Graham runs on oil, farming, and ranching, the loyal patrons are mostly blue-collar warriors. They swing by, fuel up, grab a drink, possibly a snack, and embark on their daily adventures.

I popped by on a Friday just after the lunch rush, ordering up a cheeseburger, all the way with mustard and mayo. No fries for me because, well, I’m trying this thing called “healthy eating.”

The lady behind the spatula expertly pulled a thick patty from a plastic sleeve and tossed it on the grill with the confidence of a culinary artist. This wasn’t a run-of-the-mill frozen patty, it might even be hand-packed. You could tell by its charmingly imperfect shape.

As the grill worked its magic, she threw the buns on to toast them just right—crispy yet soft, like a toasted marshmallow on a summer night.

With meticulous finesse, she navigated the patty across the grill, harnessing her intimate knowledge of its hotspots. She pressed down gently, going for a smash-burger vibe without draining the juicy goodness.

Grabbing a large cup, I filled it with unsweet tea, brewed fresh by the Thriftway tea masters. One sip and I was transported to tea heaven. Before I knew it, I was already back for a refill.

When my burger was ready, it was clear this wasn’t 'fast food'—this was burger artistry. I tipped my hat to the culinary wizard, dropped a few bucks in the tip jar, and walked out, brown paper bag in hand. The telltale grease stain was like a badge of honor. As Dr. Nick from The Simpsons says, “If you’re not sure about something, rub it against a piece of paper. If the paper turns clear, it's your window to weight gain.”

Since there were no tables around, I ventured to the local park to eat my burger and commune with the ducks and squirrels. But with temperatures in the mid-30s, my car became my dining room.

Opening the neatly wrapped package, I noticed the extra black pepper I asked for as she was building the burger —thoughtful touch! The melted cheese fused bun and patty together, topped with lettuce, pickles, and tomato—a visual masterpiece. We eat with our eyes, right? Who am I to argue?

As I took a bite, burger juice dripped onto my shirt. Typical! Time to employ Guy Fieri’s “hunch” technique—bend, bite, arms at 45-degree angles—to keep the toppings from landing on my belly. Not easy in a car, but thank goodness for those extra napkins from my burger sensei.

Next time you’re passing through Graham, TX around lunchtime, don’t make the mistake of driving by. Stop, order a burger, and enjoy one of the finest gas station culinary experiences around.

Thrift Way Deli is located at 184 Elm Street, Graham, TX.

As for the Texas Burger Stop's rating, here goes:

• Patty Size and Style: medium thick, looks to be hand formed
• Cooking style: grilled on a flat top
• Char: nice char across the patty
• Bun: soft, lightly toasted
• Vegetables: fresh green lettuce, onions, pickles and tomatoes
• Napkins needs: better grab a handful, it is juicy
• Special attributes: in a small gas station with the friendliest staff and some of the best tea available
• Ownership: local gas station deli

 

Grump's Burgers - Burleson, TX

Move over, Kelly Clarkson, from where I stand, the star of Burleson is Grump's Burgers.

I was in Burleson, recently, and found Grump's Burgers. What a find it was.

Located in the Old Town section of Burleson, the burger joint is housed in an old two-story building, complete with a Texas Flag roof. The location screams 'Come on in and sit a spell', so I did.

Burgers, Texas Flag, Old Town charm, I held back tears of joy.

They offer peanuts to consume while you wait, ala Logan's Roadhouse, but they playfully call them Grump's Nuts. To-go bags can be picked up for $2.99/lb along with their much-talked-about jalapeño ketchup. I didn't sample the ketchup. I wish I had.

The line to order your food forms to the left. Step up, read the menu, place your order. Simple enough approach.

On this day, I opted for the standard cheeseburger, but decided to amp it up with a jalapeño bun (.99¢ upcharge). I also was intrigued by their sweet potato fries until I saw the Dirty Fries on the list of available fry choices. Grilled jalapeño and onions smothering my fries? How can I say no? My mouth watered at the thought of it.

I grabbed my drink glass (the large is refillable for $1 on every visit thereafter) and sat down to enjoy some peanuts before my meal arrived. They point out they are not a fast food joint on a sign near the register. Hand-formed, never frozen burgers take time. Why rush perfection, I thought. Wouldn't have it any other way.

As I enjoyed the peanuts, washed down with a tall glass of half-and-half sweet tea, I watched videos from GAC on the TVs around the room. 

My Dirty Fries arrived soon and I was surprised by the mounds of jalapeño's and onions covering them. Pleasantly surprised. I should have ordered a side of ranch dressing, I thought. But, alas, I dug in and it was pure greatness. They were no match.

A few minutes later a gentleman who I presumed to be the owner or manager arrived to inform me the supply truck did not have the jalapeño buns so my burger would require a regular bun. He was so nice and apologetic about it. "Things happen", I said and continued my assault on the Dirty Fries.

The burger arrived soon after and I noticed it had a large toast mark from its time on the flat top. Nice touch.

I opened it up to apply liberal amounts of black pepper, a ritual I always perform. It contained a good amount of onions and shredded lettuce, some pickles and two slices of tomato. The tomatoes weren't the deep-red color I usually like, but, they looked fine. Good deep-red-colored tomatoes are difficult to find any longer for some reason, even in the grocery stores. The patty was a medium thickness and looked to be perfectly prepared. Overall, visually, it's a home run.

When I took my first bite, the experience was complete. It packed plenty of flavor, was juicy but not dripping with grease and had a nice melding of flavors in each bite.

Was it the best burger I had ever had? Well, no, but it's in the top 10. Maybe top 5. It's good. 

I posted on my Facebook account that this is the kind of place that would do very well in Graham, TX, on the largest downtown square in America. The old world charm of the building, the non-nonsense approach to customer service, and the quality of the food would be in instant success. Sure, Graham has the Dairy King and KN Root Beer and I wouldn't trade them for all the tea in China. But a place like this on the Square would be awesome and there is always room for another burger joint.

If Grump's ever expands elsewhere, perhaps Graham and the NE Tarrant County area might make the list. Then, my options for burgers at each place I call home would be complete.

As for the Texas Burger Stop's rating, here goes:

• Patty Size and Style: medium thick, hand formed
• Cooking style: grilled on a flat top
• Char: nice char across the patty
• Bun: soft, toasted (as noted above, opted for jalapeno bun, but it was out of stock)
• Vegetables: fresh shredded lettuce, onions, pickles and tomatoes
• Napkins needs: one napkin should do
• Special attributes: lots of TVs, adult beverages available, friendly wait staff, very cool old town building
• Ownership: local chain

Marlene's @ The Big Chill - Chicken Salad Sandwich

Marlene's is one of those places that looks like it has been around since the beginning of time. In a good way, of course. It is nestled in an old building on The Largest Downtown Square in America. The building, at one time, housed a local soda shop, the counter still remains to this day. Coca Cola and Dr Pepper memorabilia add to the decor, as does the detailed ceiling tiles and the wooden floors.


I always go to Marlene's for one thing, the Chicken Salad sandwich (CSS). Others will tell you the French Dip is the thing to try, while others will tell you the soups are the thing. Trust me, it's all good. 


When I visit Marlene's, they always greet me with a smile and a menu. I usually order a glass of water or tea and the #21, a full size chicken salad sandwich on white bread with Sun Chips. Oh, and the bread is not the stuff that Mrs. Baird's mass produces, it's homemade bread. Sliced about a half-inch thick, the bread has a nice airy look and a soft feel that really compliments the chicken salad.


Marlene loads up the sandwich with an ample amount of chicken salad, two slices of tomatoes per half and leafy green lettuce. On the plate is a pickle spear and a bag of Sun Chips (or Ruffles). When you bite into the sandwich, the chicken salad oozes out the side of the bread a bit because Marlene's doesn't just show the bread the Chicken Salad, they pile it on. I usually use the Sun Chips to scoop up the leftover chicken salad sitting on the plate when I am done with the sandwich.


If you are in the area around lunch, it's a can't miss item and a can't miss place.

Paula's by the Lake - Graham, TX

I saw an advertisement for Paula's By The Lake, a new place occupying the space where The Steele Grill was on Lake Graham. Since I am always in the mood to try some place new, I figured I would drop by on my way home one evening.


It was past 7:30 when I arrived and there was only one other person in the place. Normally, that might be a bad sign, but being the trooper I am, I went inside.


The location is nicely decorated and clean looking. They took out the glass counter and salad prep area along the wall and added extra tables. It looks like they have a private area available for dining as well.


The menu, it appears, changes daily. I happened to visit on the 'homestyle' day, so chicken fried steak, chicken fried chicken and catfish were on the menu.


I noticed a chalkboard with two or three burger choices written down, so I inquired about them. I settled for the Claude Burger, named after the owner of the space, a half pound single-patty cheese burger with grilled jalapenos and bacon. I ordered a side of onion rings as well.


The cook went to work on the burger, I could hear the sizzle of the grill as he started cooking the patty. He brought out the burger and rings in a few minutes and I surveyed my meal.


The rings were cooked perfect. They were hand-dipped with a thick, crunchy batter. The burger was a medium-thick, hand-formed patty with a nice crunchy char where it made contact with the grill. It was cooked just right, enough of a sear on it to seal in the juices. I love charred mammal flesh.


I started with the rings first before moving to the burger. The jalapenos were grilled, swimming in mustard, and formed a nice layer on the bottom of the burger between the patty and the bun. The cheese melted into the patty, just the way I like it.


Overall the meal was great. The bun could have been a little more substantial, it started to fall apart before I was done, probably because it was one of the thinner buns you sometimes see.

I look forward to my next stop. I told them I would be in enough that they would name a burger after me.


If you are in the area, you should stop by. They are located at 1733 FM 3003, just this side of the Double Docks on Lake Graham.

As for the Texas Burger Stop's rating, here goes:

• Patty Size and Style: medium thick and hand formed
• Cooking style: Cooked perfectly on a flat top
• Char: good char across the patty
• Bun: fresh tasting, little too thin, came apart before the burger was finished
• Vegetables: good veggies
• Napkins needs: I found I needed a couple
• Special attributes: Lake Graham
• Ownership: locally owned

Burgers and Billiards - Graham

Burgers and Billard's took my idea (great burger joint with an entertainment area) and turned it into a place I love to visit and miss dearly on Sunday when I am looking for a burger fix and the doors are shut.

If you are gonna stop by for a burger here, you better do it during a normal lunch or dinner time hours. I have called up there at 1:45 pm on Saturday to order a burger and been told by 'Bucket' that she's turned off the grill because it was slow today and I would have to wait until dinner.

That's the type of place she runs. If the local teenagers get a little unruly, she is quick to usher them out the door or get them back in line. Her boisterous voice carries over the jukebox playing in the corner, warning those who get a little rambunctious to tone it down a notch.

My first venture there was with my friend Chris. He and I stopped by for lunch. No need to vocalize what he wanted, Bucket knew his order and was waiting on mine. I followed his lead and ordered up the Jr Burger Combo. Although it has been a while back, it seems like the cost was about ^$4 for the 1/4 lb burger, fries and a drink. I think they might have gone up on the price a little bit now, but it is still well within reason.

Even though the Jr burger is the smaller bun and patty, I left feeling satisfied with the portion. It was so good, in fact, I was back in there the next day ordering up another combo for dinner.

I stumbled upon my favorite burger there sometime later, the Captain's Mate. It was at the insistence of my friend David Bryan. He and the family stopped by BnB one Saturday evening and he tried one and it was 'ggoooooooodddd'. When David talks about food like that, it has to be tried.

The worst part for me, however, was they weren't open on Sunday and I wouldn't be back in Graham for another week. That was a long week thinking about that burger. Like a dog who goes looking for a bone he buried, I navigated right to BnB the next Saturday and ordered up a burger.

The Captain's Mate (or, my choice, the smaller Mini Captain's Mate) is a half-pound burger with swiss cheese and shaved ham on top. It's my choice of 'drug' when I need a burger fix at the BnB.

For all of the burgers served at BnB, the patty starts off being hand formed every day by the staff. And, the final product shows the attention to detail. The patty is slightly thick and it comes out cooked perfectly on the flat top grill. They get just a bit of crust on the meat, indicative of a nice, hot, seasoned grill.

The burgers are always made fresh to order and the combo meal is well in line with your budget. In fact, I have told Bucket on more than one occasion she could raise the price a bit and not hurt herself. My comments were purely selfish. I would rather pay a few cents more and know they will be around for the long haul than save a few pennies and watch them go out of business because they can't pay the bills.

There are several great things on the menu at BnB besides the Captain's Mate. I have found the patty melt to be a nice alternative to the typical burger. It is served on Texas Toast and is a nice change of pace to the normal burger bun.

One more thing I can't rave about enough are the onion rings. This is another recommendation from David. The rings look to be hand battered and made on-site. The final product looks more like an 'onion loaf' when they arrive at your table. They look like they are sort of piled into the deep fryer on top of each other. Hanging on for dear life in the hot boiling grease, these tender, battered onions cling to each other as if vowing they will all go down together. The result is an 'onion ring clump' that borders on spectacular. Toss on a little 'hot salt' they have on each table while they are still moist from the grease and you have some kicked-up rings that are worth raving about.

Burgers and Billards can be found at 1222 Hwy 16 South, Graham, TX. Their phone number is 940-521-0113. They are tucked in off the road a bit, right next to the What-A-Burger, so you have to look kinda close to see them.

As for the Texas Burger Stop's rating, here goes:

• Patty Size and Style: hand formed, medium thick patty
• Cooking style: grilled on a flat top
• Char: good char throughout the patty
  
• Bun: grilled bun
• Vegetables: fresh veggies
  
• Napkins needs: one napkin should do
  
• Special attributes: Stop in for a few games of pool after a good burger
  
• Ownership: locally owned, non chain